From Jungle Glamour to Bejewelled Whimsy: The Rise of Animal Brooches in the 1960s

When we think of 1960s style, images of geometric prints, mini-skirts, and bold experimentation spring to mind. It was a decade that redefined fashion, rejecting post-war restraint in favour of creativity and personal expression. The jewellery world, too, underwent a radical transformation. Among the most playful and expressive trends to emerge was the rise of animal-themed brooches, pieces that captured the spirit of the era through humour, artistry, and an undeniable sense of joy.

Bellmans’ upcoming Fine Jewellery auction, which includes a striking collection of mid-century animal brooches, offers a sparkling window into this fascinating moment in design history. From whimsical birds and charming poodles to majestic lions and elegant felines, these jewels tell the story of how jewellery became more than adornment, it became personality.

The 1950s: A Foundation of Formal Elegance

To appreciate the creative leap of the 1960s, one must first look back to the 1950s. Post-war jewellery design was steeped in tradition, with pieces that reflected aspiration, sophistication, and status. The brooch was an essential accessory for the well-dressed woman, worn neatly on the lapel, hat, or dress. Designs tended toward symmetry and refinement, bows, flowers, and scrolls rendered in white gold and platinum, often accented with diamonds or cultured pearls.

Jewellery houses such as Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels continued to draw on classical motifs, crafting jewels that complemented the hourglass silhouettes and immaculate tailoring of Dior’s “New Look.” Animal motifs existed, but they were tame, elegant swans, doves, and butterflies, evoking delicacy rather than daring.

This was jewellery as formality: beautiful, correct, and somewhat restrained. Yet as the 1960s dawned, a cultural shift was underway.

The 1960s: Freedom, Colour, and Character

The 1960s ushered in an age of liberation, politically, socially, and stylistically. Fashion broke free from convention; designers like Mary Quant, André Courrèges, and Pierre Cardin led a revolution in line, colour, and attitude. Women were no longer dressing to fit tradition, they were dressing to express individuality.

Jewellery followed suit. Suddenly, precious metals and gemstones were no longer confined to formal occasions or symmetrical designs. Jewels became fun, wearable, and witty, objects of charm as much as luxury. Nowhere was this transformation more evident than in the animal brooch.

Brooches of this era were infused with imagination. Lions strutted with ruby eyes; owls blinked from gold branches; cats, frogs, and parrots sparkled with coloured gemstones. These creations weren’t meant to match an outfit, they were meant to speak.

Animal brooches captured a mood that was both glamorous and light-hearted. They combined high craftsmanship with a sense of mischief, reflecting a generation that valued personality over polish.

Icons of the Era: The Houses That Led the Trend

No jeweller embodied this new creative energy quite like Cartier. Having produced refined animal forms in earlier decades, Cartier’s designers in the 1960s injected new life into their menagerie. The Panthère de Cartier, originally modelled in the 1940s by Jeanne Toussaint, was reinterpreted with a modern edge, sleek, confident, and powerful, mirroring the rising independence of women in the decade.

Meanwhile, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its “La Boutique” line in 1954, offering more accessible, cheerful jewels that contrasted with the house’s haute joaillerie creations. It was here that a parade of gem-set creatures took centre stage, from playful squirrels to wide-eyed birds and drowsy turtles. Crafted in textured gold and accented with turquoise, coral, or hardstones, they exuded warmth and humour.

Tiffany & Co. too, embraced the animal kingdom. Designers like Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin created fantastical creatures in enamel and precious stones, seahorses, dragons, bees, and fish ,each alive with colour and character. Schlumberger’s designs in particular stood out for their sculptural exuberance and painterly use of enamel.

Even traditional British and European firms, such as Kutchinsky, Boucheron, and Chaumet, joined the trend, producing gold animals with textured finishes and gemstone accents that perfectly captured the decade’s tactile aesthetic.

From Symbolism to Self-Expression

Historically, animals in jewellery have always carried meaning. Victorian pieces often featured snakes (eternity), doves (love), or horseshoes (luck). In the 1960s, however, animals were less about symbolism and more about character. They were chosen because they delighted the eye, raised a smile, or reflected something of the wearer’s personality.

A whimsical rabbit or a proud lion could convey humour, confidence, or individuality, attributes that resonated strongly in an era celebrating personal freedom. The animal brooch became a form of sartorial storytelling, inviting conversation and self-expression.

For working women and style icons alike, these jewels offered a sense of empowerment. They could be worn to the office, to a cocktail party, or even pinned playfully on a coat or hat. They blurred the boundaries between fine jewellery and fashion accessory, just as the 1960s blurred distinctions between high and popular culture.

The Art of Texture and Colour

Technically, too, animal brooches showcased innovation. Designers explored new ways to manipulate gold, experimenting with finishes that gave the illusion of fur, feathers, or scales. “Florentine” and “bark” textures became hallmarks of the decade, their irregular surfaces adding both warmth and realism.

Coloured gemstones, once secondary to diamonds, took centre stage. Peridot, turquoise, coral, citrine, and onyx brought vibrancy to the jeweller’s palette. Enamel was used with renewed enthusiasm, particularly in Schlumberger’s and David Webb’s creations ,to create lifelike hues and playful detail.

The result was jewellery that felt alive. Whether a frog perched mid-leap, an elephant raising its trunk, or a butterfly poised to take flight, each creature seemed imbued with motion and wit.

A Democratisation of Design

Interestingly, while many of these brooches were crafted by prestigious houses, the broader popularity of the motif reflected a democratization of design. Costume jewellery brands such as Trifari, Corocraft, and Monet produced charming animal brooches in gilt metal and rhinestones, allowing fashionable women of all backgrounds to partake in the trend.

These more affordable versions mirrored the couture creations of Paris and New York, and today they too are cherished by collectors for their period charm. The animal brooch, then, became a unifying emblem of 1960s creativity, accessible yet aspirational, chic yet mischievous.

Collecting Today: Enduring Appeal

Decades later, the appeal of these mid-century jewels endures. Collectors prize them not only for their craftsmanship but for the nostalgia and optimism they evoke. Each brooch is a miniature sculpture, encapsulating both the artistic exuberance and social freedom of its age.

At Bellmans, we regularly see growing enthusiasm for 1960s jewellery, particularly pieces that combine fine materials with characterful design. Animal brooches are especially sought after, as they bridge the gap between traditional elegance and modern playfulness.

The examples featured in our forthcoming November Fine Jewellery auction perfectly embody this balance. Highlights include:

• A Cartier diamond and ruby owl brooch; with an amethyst body, turquoise head, round brilliant cut diamond face and oval cut ruby eyes, perched on a branch also set with a round brilliant cut diamond, the back marked Cartier.
• A Snake Bow Brooch; mounted with diamonds and garnets to the body, with sapphire eyes and an articulated opal and pearl drop from the mouth, in a bow shape.